The original fiber tack strip should be removed and the underlying surface cleaned. New tack strip can be cut from waterproof panel board and glued or riveted in place. I have found that just brushing Weldwood adhesive onto the metal and back edge of the headliner material works just fine. Im most cases, there is no need to replace the tack strip at all.

Jack Purdue — Jack Purdue

I am always open to new ideas, but "Old School always
works."

Thank you. It's all old school- clutch motor, patterning with chalk and a ruler and 50 years of experience.

*Just a note- The owner of this 1963 Buick LeSabre received a scored 395 out of 400 at the National Buick Meet this year. I am so proud to be able to restore these cars for my customers.

This panel was made for a 1963 Buick LeSabre convertible. New original vinyl was applied over waterproof panel board. All the seams were sewn to make it look like the original die-electric stamping.

The door panel fasteners you are referring to are covered in this book. It shows in great detail how to align and replace the nail fasteners.

Shipping should be listed separately. The customer needs to know that shipping costs are going to be there and they are high right now. Just like sales tax, they need to pay it.

You should get yourself a copy of this book. It has a chapter on how to make a suspended headliner. It will make your task much easier to complete.

The trouble with trying to glue vinyl to plastic is just what you have experienced. No matter how well you clean the plastic the vinyl will not adhere properly. The chemicals use in the manufacturing of the materials are constantly off-gassing and they react with each other.

The create a better bonding surface, the plastic should be cleaned with lacquer thinner. It will evaporate fast and leave no residue. Then use the Weldwood adhesive to bond a thin underliner to the surface of the plastic. The felt will hold to the plastic. Not you can glue the cover vinyl to the felt without it lifting.

@Larry Walton Thank you for your update getting these seat covers to fit and look properly. Your approach to tackling this project shows that you are a true professional. Too many times we hear of how horrible a product is without going the extra effort to make it look right.

Most of these issues are covered in my latest book. Pre-manufactured kits are difficult to make look right, but complaining about it on-line is not the best way to deal with a problem.

Thank you again for the professional way you presented this.

I assume you are referring to headliners. These should first be scraped with any number of methods and then thoroughly cleaned with a solvent that will remove the adhesive without leaving a residue behind.

I have relied on the use of lacquer thinner for this task for many reasons.

First, it dissolves glue quickly and it evaporates fast. The fumes are something to be cautious of, but if you are well ventilated and use a mask you will be fine.

Second, Lacquer thinner does not leave a residue like many petroleum base products that you have mentioned will. Glue will not adhere to this residue and you end up with another stage of cleaning to get rid of the oil.

What you need are the Au-Ve-Co Clip #7578. The fasteners you have pictured look like broken nail panel fasteners.that someone jammed into the seat frame to hold the seat cover onto the frame.

Get yourself a copy of this book. It will answer all of your convertible top questions.

It would be a great group project.

Thanks Nadeem@Nadeem Muaddi

I've done dozens of these cars. Not too difficult. the 56 has a unique fastening of the rear tack strip, it is not bolted tight to the body but rather "floats" 1.5 inches on longer bolts.

The procedure and great photo detail to make and install a suspended headliner is available in this book.

A very wise man once told me,"Just because it can be done, doesn't mean that you should do it."

I have been restoring complete interiors for over 45 years. The key to working on long projects is to finish all of the removable pieces before the car rolls into the shop. This way you are not tying up valuable work space that can be used for one or two day projects.

After all the seats and trim panels are ready, have the customer bring the car in and install the top, carpet and the rest of the components. This keeps things moving and the long projects roll out in less than two weeks.

Vinyl will adhere better to the panel if you first apply a felt under liner. The cloth will bond to the plastic and the vinyl will bond to the fabric. Use Weldwood landau adhesive to glue it all together.

@Gareth Judd From what I was told from Hydro-E-Lectric, the rear tack rail is no longer being produced and is not available. I was also unaware that there were two tack rail versions for the 1969 Impala.

The parts you are missing can be easily fabricated to fit the car. If you were near by I would gratefully make them for you. If you cannot acquire them locally, Send me a pattern with the dimensions and I will make a set for you.

From the image that you posted, it clearly looks like the tack rail extensions are missing. Are you sure that this was car was not altered from the floating tack rail?

The last 69 impala that I worked on had a floating rear tack rail.This image shows the tack rail bolted in place.This shows the tack rail unbolted, ready for removal.

What is your project? Coil or zig-zag springs?
Call me, I can help.

Nothing beats practice. Get used to the feel of your machine. Learn to thread it, change a bobbin without looking and then move on to learning more advanced stitching.

Acquiring more feet, binders and more machines will come as you advance your skills. Do not rush the process.