I think we may buy it direct, however we do buy 100ltrs at a time.I don't do the headliners but I do know what you mean about not being able to reposition it however letting it really dry out does help.I've not used any other glue so can't compare it to anything else.

We use alpha 1554 sprayable contact adhesive and have not had any problems of headliners falling down.Probably one headliner a week.

I probably will be using a normal gun.I guess from the work i want to attract (bike seats and modern seats)I won't be needing glue too often hence the need for smaller cans.

I could be interested depending on price and sizes of cans.At work we use alpha buying four lots of 25ltrs at a time.To start with I would be interested in 5ltr cans, possibly more if I get more work.I think the aplha works out at around £75 for 5ltrs.

The last one I did I put the bows up where I wanted them then measured the gaps at the center, I measured where I wanted it to start curving down, I measured the gaps at the sides and the distance from the curve start to the curve end.Front and rear ends I made a rough template, I also added a few inches onto each side.Not sure If this is the correct way but it worked ok.This was for a ford anglia 105e.

Thank you, If you've seen my work through the company website most is not mine, however I have posted on some of the facebook upholstery groups.
Looks a great place to work, unfortunately I'm too long in the tooth for relocating such a distance.
With regards to your intial question it seems that you are advertising in the most suitable places, things have moved on since the times of job searching was looking in the local newspapers situations vacant column.Is there the possibility of training a school leaver up?

Sounds good.Twice what you get in the uk.

I try not to mark any area that will be visible, if I do need to mark a stitch line or something that could be seen I use a white water erasable fabric pen.It can leave a residue but one that is far less obvious than what a silver pen does, also I have less fear of it soaking into and staining the thread.

Can you get a bit of cloth embroidered then sew the cloth to the carpet?

I also cut mine at 1 and 1/4, works out just right for 10mm (3/8) seam allowance.

I had a signmaker friend cut me strips of plastic in various sizes, mine are all 1mtr long but they could be cut any length.I've got one inch up to three inch in 1/4 inch increments.

I did notice today when using a piping foot that was too small the material didn't feed properly and the stitch length was reduced.

Thick dense foam?

I don't think cnc would do that as there is no doubling up of the thread and as far as I know cnc can only do continuous lines.So my thoughts are the red is done first with the ends being tied on the rear then placed on scrim and the black sewing is done.Shouldn't be too difficult apart from the time to mark out, stopping and starting lines and tying off at the rear.I dont think the scrim is v cut as it looks quite rounded on the diamond edges, I think its more of an optical illusion that it looks squareish.

https://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=180_259&product_id=454
Lots of other feet at reasonable prices, just found a binder that I think may work with leather and carpet.
The machine I've got is a bit of an odd one, never seen another in this configeration with a singer style foot but it meets all my needs.Typical tw1-899, same machine as a brother and a seiko.

For the price of a piping foot set I'd just get a new one.I don't use zipper feet but have just cut down old piping feet but the piping foot does have the cut out on both the inner and outer foot.I tend to buy feet for all sort of useages, many I've yet to use.One I bought recently that is useful is a piping foot that has the needle on the opposite side from normal, it works great for seing pipping cord on the lower skirt of a seat cover so it reinforces it for hog ringing onto the seat frame.

I cut my material 1 1/4 inch wide which with 1/8(I think) inch cord gives me 10mm seam allowance.I first sew the piping (no presewing) to one panel at 8mm seam allowance then when I sew the next panel on I sew at 10mm allowance.Both 8mm and 10mm allowance are scribed onto my sewing machine base.I think my piping foot is 3/16.

I had a few stubborn wrinkles on some very expensive connolly leather seats I've just covered for a coachbuilt bentley. I've been a bit wary of using steam and/or heat gun though I tried both.Today I braved it and got an iron out, covered the leather with a piece of calico and ironed away..............it worked.Certainly something I might try again.

Yep, Devon so mainly classics and campers.

I think we use polycarbonate.As to why, that I don't know.

Our suppliers for contact adhesive is apollo adhesives in the uk.We buy it in 25 litre drums and use it for everything including jag headliners, not had any fail yet.

I find leatherworker.net forum is always useful for sewing machine help.

If you get the automotive upholstery handbook by Don Taylor there is a useful section on vinyl tops.Its also very good on other areas.He also has a book about custom auto interiors which I have found full of tips and ideas.

The other day I spent an hour or so pulling nails that I chucked away from some wood that I'll also probably throw away.That's how bored I am.
Great cabinet Chris.

I'm in the uk and have been furloughed for the last 5 weeks along with my three co workers.I'm in again next week for 2 weeks then possibly furloughed for another 3 weeks.Apart for a 30 minute jog three times a week I haven't been out.I did all the diy I needed to do in the first week and now just kicking my heels trying to make the day go by.