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@Steve Myers I have done many of those models. Unfortunately you will not be able to buy what you are looking for. You can easily make the wire-on yourself. It takes some careful measuring ans a few standard supplies, but it is do able.

If you need help, please let me know.

The cover material can be sewn to match your design and then glued to the panel board. Sewing the material directly to the panel board will cause the door panel to become weak from the needle holes.

You will also need to skive the edges of the leather to help reduce the thickness of the seams. I have used this method many times and the final result is just as I imagined it to be.

As I get older, I am amazed how many new ways this trade changes. This seems to be a wonderful alternative to real leather.

School is just a beginning. The real learning is hands on working in a real environment. Mistakes will be made. This shouldn't be a determent for hiring a graduate. If you treat your people well, they will take care of you. Getting the experience to be a great trimmer takes time. Just remember no one starts at the top.

My opinion would be to use Weldwood glue and then try stapling with shorter staples. Divergent point staples work well in soft base materials, but not what you are describing.

Leave the back bound edge where it is. The top needs to be pulled about 1/4 inch at the 3rd snap fastener and then worked forward. The wrinkle will come out.

The industry standard is DAP Weldwwod Landau Top adhesive. If you can't get it locally, try Amazon.

Chapter 3 in this book shows step by step on how to recreate a door panel from scratch. This is a great reference book for everyone in the trade.

There are a few things happening here.

First is that the materials you are sewing through are very thick and loose. they are moving and that causes deflection of the needle.

Another issue is that the presser foot cannot hold the materials tight enough to the sewing bed. (A roller foot would be better.) The best method for sewing a visor is to do it on a post bed machine. This will allow the material to be sewn only sitting on the small table bed. (No deflection)

Using the machine you have, It would help if you sewed the material along the edge and trimmed it very close to the stitches before applying the binding. Brush some contact cement onto the inside of the binding to help hold it in place before sewing.

They do not have original interior seat covers or trim panels.

I am always willing to help our industry grow. Thank you for the opportunities.

As far as I know, There are no known makers of the pre-made seat covers and door panels you are looking for. Acme does have the headliner patterns and make one for you.

Any of the box stores will have what you need. I have ordered from the Parts Place and found them to be reasonable on price and have good quality one the parts they sell.
https://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/

When crafting a tonneau cover, the snaps are set after the cover is made to fit. This will assure that the cover will fit properly.

I use the press-n-snap tool to set the snaps. It is a quick process to fit the snaps after the cover is sewn.

I would be happy to send some your way. Always willing to help out. It's great to hear from you, been too long. We all miss your comments.

@Jim Nishida-AdamsHello Jim,
Try some ply-grip.

If you remove your presser foot, i will be easier to get the frame under the machine. I would recommend that the customer should get new doors as the old ones are not going to last much longer after a repair.

Most heel pads are sewn to the carpet. Glue alone will not prevent the edges from lifting.

We are not in the Pizza or Oil Change business. Costs vary depending on your location, overhead and taxes. It would be to your advantage to figure out what your actual shop rate is and then apply it to your experience.

If you are not happy with actual costs, Adjust the final cost of the project to an amount you and the customer can live with.

@Chris Vining I appreciate your effort to advance the industry and your business. The frustration you are experiencing is just part of being a good leader. Keep up the great work, never give up the good fight.

The chapter on carpet has a lot of color photos and step by step on how to fit carpet to your car.

If you are referring to the 1/2 inch wind seal, I believe that it was not used on that model. There should be a heavy rubber seal across the top of the windshield that keeps the weather out.

The front edge of that top is glued to the underside of the header bow. Finished with wire-on after all adjustments have been made.

There are two things that could have been changed to make the top fit better.
1. Make an adjustment of 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch to extend (Loosen) the lower edge of rear sail along the rear tack rail. This will allow the top to move forward and cover the vertical rail of the top frame.
2. Check the rear bow height and it might help to reposition it allow the top to lay flatter and wider across the top frame.

I also suggest sending these photos to the manufacture of the top and have their engineer determine what to do next.