Thanks Andy, but the owner has picked out another fabric which I'm in the process of sewing up now. I will put them in my memory bank for future use. I'm done with SMS.

I agree Peter.....If they could be honest about availability and ship dates would be nice, but they can't seem to even do that. Long lead times can be worked around, but when they lie about it and you try to schedule work accordingly , it's just not possible. I can't see how they keep their doors open.

I use 92 for most all, but I do like 138 for top stitching. Maybe an over kill, but for whatever reason I've always done it that way. I would use even bigger thread for top stitching but my machine don't like it very well.

I need to change my opinion of SMS. I requested a sample of fabric for a 72 Nova which they supplied a sample of just what I needed and told me it was in stock. ( Needed 3 yards.) The price was very high, but they had it and I needed it so I ordered and gave them my billing information. They charged my card on October 12 and then the fun began. I waited a couple of weeks and nothing so I emailed them. They won't take a call unless you are ordering. They told me they had to order a new roll from the mill. (OEM fabric?) Anyway after two plus months and 20 emails with lame excuses, I still don't have the fabric. I called the credit card company to do a bill back which is now in progress. Just so you all know, beware of doing business with them. I had good luck in the past but will never use them again.

I have several pairs of scissors, but have never used Kai's yet. I find it most important to find someone who can do a good job sharpening them. I'm sure a lot of you sharpen them yourself but I don't. I found a guy that sharpens hair dresser shears and he uses a power hone of some sorts, not a grinding wheel. What a difference that makes. Also because he removes so little metal the shears last a lot longer

A button press like Eric mentioned is pretty much the standard, but I don't think the button mold that you are trying to use will work. If you only have a few to cover you may want to go to your local upholstery shop and have them cover them for you. You can get a fair amount of $$ invested in making buttons. I know I've covered several for people and don't normally charge.

I would still say no, unless there was some way that I could prove that I was certified to do that type of work.
When the lawyer for the injured party asks how I knew the proper way of repairing an air bag seat, I would want to have a better answer than "I watched a video on you tube".

I'm with Sam and Fred, If it has an airbag I won't touch it. Seatbelts are always a problem also, If the owner puts the hardware in or if the factory installed them, I will replace them with owner purchased seat belts. (just bolting them down) I won't sew up or repair seat belts. It just isn't worth it.

Thanks Steve, I've used a router to round over some stock sizes, I just need to find someone with a water jet or maybe a shear...Thanks again

Steve,
Where do you get the aluminum trim that you use? I'm sure you bend your own, but I need a supplier for the trim itself in different sizes ...Thanks in advance

One thing you need to look at is air volume (cfm) even though you start with 90psi it will soon drop if you don't have the cfm to keep up. I ran into this wit a small air compressor. Sprayed good to start and then gobs. I had a small air compressor which worked good for a stapler, but not for a larger spray gun with glue. Just a thought

I stay away from anything to do with airbags, and am very careful with what I do with seatbelts also. When push comes to shove and you are in court, that attorney or judge is going to ask you if you are a qualified auto engineer and have the knowledge to design or modify safety devices.
I just don't want to loose everything trying to help a good customer. Just my thoughts.

They do sell a repair strip, bit it's only about 2" long with one nail. I have just made new panels and drilled the doors, punched the panels and used frog leg clips. Not OEM but it works.

I've had good luck with SMS, if you email them that picture they will send you a sample of what they have. The last couple of cars/trucks that I needed OEM fabric for they matched it perfectly.

Have you tried GK Shoe Supply in NY? You have probably already checked with them

What is shoe insole material?

Im sure you have checked it, but could the machine be threaded wrong. Maybe picture showing that might shed some light on it?

Normal velcro works but the hard hook works better. As fer as the channels go, they don't need to be perfect and a razor blade will cut them out, you just have to go slow and use care. Like a friend of mine said...."if it was easy, little girls would be doing it"

A lot of the newer cars and trucks are using velcro instead of rings, you can glue the hook side of the velcro to the foam ( I cut a shallow channel in the foam) and there is a loop material that sews to the seam. (can't remember the name of it). I have, a couple of times, glued the loop material to the underside of the cover to match up with the velcro hook that is glued to the foam when there isn't a seam or sew it in when making pleats. I hope that helps. I'm sure some others have different ways of getting the job done.

There are several ways to anchor the seat cover. Listing wires/cord and velcro are the most common. The anchor system needs to be addressed as you build the seat and cover. On a simple bench seat, making the cover that needs to be pulled tight as you install will get you where you want to be.
What have you tried so far?

Just a guess, as I'm not a repairman although I do work on my own machines, that you maybe pulling the needle sideways so that the hook don't catch the thread. Again, just a guess

The strips of metal work fine, but some panels like above the doors there is no open spaces so you will need to drill the wood out bigger behind the metal to let the clip expand if you are using a metal clip. You can also use "Christmas tree" clips directly into the wood. Make sure they are right as they are hell to get out of the wood. Also the panel needs to be padded right so that the heads of the clips won't show on the face.