I bought an 18" section of railroad track. Heavy stuff.
Had it cut down into four 3" pieces & one 6".
Cleaned 'em all up, smoothed out the rough, sharp corners & edges & then sprayed with some clear.
Can be used standing or on their sides.
They make great mini-anvils, too.
Watch your toes when they fall off of the bench.

This book...
Custom Auto Interiors by Don Taylor and Ron Mangus,
...has a great step-by-step, very precise article with lots o'pix showing how to do exactly what you're customer wishes for.
An advanced-level book. #2 of 2 (3?) in the series.

Thanks for the info!
Yes. I have a compressor. Shouldn't have much problem with that saw.
120 gallon, 2-stage 10HP.
The small ones..."would always burn up and bog down." :grin:
It's on a pad out behind the shop. Too big along with being just too damn noisy for it to be in my workspace.
Bought at auction. Cheap. $1500.00cdn. One of my better shop investments.
Running a 1" impact fed by a 3/4" line & it'll kick in, catch up & then, turn off! 36cfm.
It's a bit of over kill for my needs. HeHe!
Major PitA to move, though. 3' high, 4.5' wide, 6.5' long & 880 lbs.

Found in Bosch's 2021 catalog.
Anyone have experience with this saw?
12" blade.

https://www.bosch-professional.com/gb/en/products/pneumatic-foam-rubber-cutter-0607595100

Fellow Canadian, here. Where are you located?

Ronsonol & Zippo lighter fluid is naptha.
Which is actually what the Dry Cleaners use.
Also sold as Camp Stove & Lantern fuel. (Larger cans & cheaper per fluid ounce!)
The lighter fluid has a yellow-ish tinge to it. The Camp Stove fuel doesn't.
The lighter fluid works great when used to remove stains on darker fabrics. But on lighter materials, it can leave a yellow stain or ring. Always do a small out-of-sight test first.
Naptha evaporates fast. Used in small quantities for stain or sticky-stuff removal in an average sized shop doesn't pose much of a health or safety risk.
But when used for larger projects, such as vinyl roof removal &/or the foam padding, those fumes can build up. Wear a proper mask. Paper/fabric Covid masks aren't sufficient.
Be aware of pilot lights.
Naptha won't hurt paint, but it will remove wax. (...which could open a whole 'nuther can o'worms.)

Only problem with that one, Chris, is that it's 220V. I couldn't see if a 110V version is an option in that listing.
Over here on the other side of the pond, 110V is the the basic standard power supply. 220V is available but it is more commonly used to power Clothes Dryers, Stoves, Hot Tubs, vehicle lifts & welding equipment, etc.
Model KD-03
Voltage AC220V
Power 570W
Speed 0-3200r/m
Blade Length 80/130/200/300mm
Power Line Length 2m
Weight 2.3kg

Slightly less $$$.
There's a 12" blade version, too.
The head can be purchased separately & is compatible with Bosch guides/blades.

https://www.amazon.com/Hercules-Foam-Rubber-Cutter-Kit/dp/B07PFFZYZP/ref=pd_sbs_3?pd_rd_w=8BO7T&pf_rd_p=5e0f7f8d-f321-4a3e-bdac-3142fcd848d7&pf_rd_r=VQNQY4MGVDN58TE6TDJE&pd_rd_r=46383048-b114-4b94-b075-2eb07d6be893&pd_rd_wg=SBOsC&pd_rd_i=B07PFFZYZP&psc=1

Have you checked to see if there is an issue with the knee lift?
Check to make sure that none of that has bound up somehow.
From the knee pad & the shaft it's attached to, to the lift rod, to that long rocking arm across the back of the head to the lift lever.

I have one machine that's a bit fussy on how the rod for the presser foot & the contact point on the lift's rotating mechanism line up when it gets rolled back upright after a cleaning.
I have to make sure that the lift & the rod that raises the foot align when rolling the head back upright.
If they miss each other, things happen that aren't right.
Creates the same probs you describe. Seems like the foot is jammed up there. Backside lever all loose & does nothing.
The quikie fix, for mine at least, is too roll the head back, push the knee lift pad to the left (with...ahhh...my knee! Lol!) & then bring the head back down, checking to make sure all lines up.
I know why mine does this & that alignment can be dialed in within the lift's adjustments.
But that machine is o-l-d. She has quirks. She can be cranky. I've learned not to mess with her too much & just to work around her idiosyncrasies.

...but then again...
This may not be your problem at all.

That last bar measurement is taken from the body opening to the center of the bar.
The top manufacturer supplies that info.
When installing the bow pads, I like to have that rear bow measurement slightly forward by about 1/2" of the dictated distance. This is because the rear curtain/window, when installed, will stretch the bow pads tighter & pull that rear bow back to where it should be.

As well as could be hoped for. Sore neck/shoulder/back. Airbag rash on arms.
Only had enough time to jump on the clutch to try to start the panic downshifting.
Left leg was straight out on impact & torqued my knee & ankle. Hobbling around on a cane right now.

Last Friday. 6:30 pm.
Lifted 4x4 Dodge ex-cab pulled out in front of me. No time to even hit the binders. Straight up slam into @ 60kmh.
Baby's gone.
Sad.

The daily/shop truck. '97. Original paint. (One-year-only color.)
Stock & original when I bought it from the first owner, 10 years ago.
4.3/stick.Hurst/Core shifter. 3.08 geared open diff. (y-a-w-n!)
2/4 drop.
17" Impala SS wheels w/275/55's.
BellTech Street Performer shocks,
SUV rear sway bar,
Urethane suspension & body mount kit.
'91 Bench seat w/small driver side flip-down armrest. Leather S/wheel,
1000w stereo. Alpine H/U. Slim-line sub. System running @ 2ohms.
Fully sound dampened.




The Project. Owned 17 years. Second owner. Also stock & original when purchased. Original paint.
Roll pan & cowl hood. Frenched L/plate front bumper. Stainless grille insert.
Headlights & bumper lights have been swapped for stock appearing clears since pic. The 454SS mirrors have been changed for Cal-Vue Street scene's.
Was a 4.3/4L60e. Soon to be a 5.3/4L80e. Will eventually be force fed.
4/7 drop. No kit. All custom fabbed.
3.73 geared 10 bolt. Eaton posi. Moser axles.
B/T Street Performer shocks. Relocated rear upper shock mounts.
BIG aftermarket Fr-n-Rr sway bars.
Cut down 3/4 ton front springs.
Full urethane suspension & body mount kit.
20"x8.5" & 20"x10" Boss 338's. 255/45's & 295/40's.
Custom recovered 6-way power/heated Escalade seats + center console. Overhead console.
1800w system. Alpine H/U & amps. 2 sets of 6.5" components. 10" DVC sub. All run @ 2ohms.




90% of the mods on both trucks were done by me.

I wish he was lazy. 11 months old. Energy to burn. Constantly busy.

Don't forget to take a swatch of those left-overs that you're trying to match with you.
Those damn "DoH!" moments, y'know? Lol!

Whenever my machines decide to be fussy. I'll pull the thread & the bobbin, blow it all out. inspect the hook for nicks or burrs, install a new needle, lube it, then re-thread & install a newly wound bobbin.Then do a few test runs on some scrap. Check the tension & set the stitch length.
Usually that's all it takes to smarten them up.

Do not use Ammonia-based cleansers such as Windex to clean vinyl.
While it won’t immediately affect the material, they will slowly break down petroleum-based vinyls, reducing it's lifespan.

Took them 17 months to send me 5 Cape Buffalo hides, which they required pre-payment for, in full.

I use the box that the top comes in to hold it up. Like the 2x4 method you guys are using.
The un-opened end of the box put under the center of the header bow. It's usually strong enough to hold the top. If it isn't, I stuff the old top inside. Tape up the opened end.
It can flipped around to hold it up high or just off of the windshield, by a couple of inches.
When I was first learning tops, the guy teaching me did that. It's the only way I've ever done them.
Both those methods posted are new to me!
Besides, with my luck, one way or another, that 2x4'd get knocked out & it'd drop.
Scratch/dent the hood. (Tim 'The Tool Man' Taylor voice.) "Oooh Nooo."
Or fall inside & rip something. That I can do something about. The first? Well...nope!
Maybe it's just me, but I'm more than just a bit paranoid of anything happening to a customer's vehicle while it's in my shop.
Nothing hanging on the one wall next to the vehicle.
Ladders out of the bay.
Brooms on the other side of the shop.
Lights on tri-pod stands are moved away past their distance of reach. (Trip on a chord? Down goes the light. Happens too easy. Spare bulbs are in the toolbox.)
Have one air line with a connection in the middle. Made a Vinyl/Velcro cover.
Some of these vehicle's paint jobs are worth more than both my trucks, combined. Damaging one is the stuff of nightmares. For me, anyways.

'66 Chevy Caprice buckets going into a '66 BelAir wagon.
.










Modified original rear seat. Not quite done in this pic. Cushion still needed a bit of tweakin'.
Yes, it still folds down & locks into place.







This is not the longest H/L I've ever done. But close!

Damn! Apologies for not getting back to you sooner! Had some family stuff to deal with. Haven't been on here for a bit. I'll give you a call this afternoon.

Darren Rawlings.
I cut them out with a pair of 10" Wiss shears. The trick is to have sharp scissors so that you can slide them through the vinyl instead of snipping & clipping. Makes for a smooth edge.
If the design is like the blue stars like Matt's design, before I stitch in the design, I'll make a small cut in the white where the star is so that I can get the scissors in there without catching the blue underneath.
Those flames in that seat were pretty eassy to cut out as the two layers of vinyl weren't sewn together along the leading edges.

Dyed the gold for the flame tips with a Preval spray gun before laying the red under the the black. Sewed the flames & then cut out.
The owner wanted a white pinstripe around the flames. Only way I could get that in there was to use a vinyl with a white backside so that it was just slightly apparent after being cut-out

Also did a red-to-gold 'fade' on the piping.