That 1/8" should work fine....I hadn't seen it in the 1/8" before Thanks Peter

Your chipboard maybe a little thick. They sell a thinner board that looks like stencil board in that it stiff but thin and advertised for sun visors. Your machine shouldn't have a problem sewing it with the foam and fabric. I use it all the time.

They can be good or bad....If you search on here you will get a better feel for how they operate...I refuse to deal with them...If a customer wants a fabric from SMS, I have them order it. That way when it don't work out they don't have a problem with me. Been that route before. Just beware, as they will tell you anything to get your money....just be sure to use a credit card so that the card company can get your money back if things go south. Problem is they are about the only game in town.

I buy them from Albright's...about $5.00 each....Maybe more $ than I can get them from across the pond, but it don't add much to the price of a job.....maybe a few cents? I can live with that.

I use 409 cleaner on a soft rag.... if you don't leave it on too long it comes off easy.

I must say that the title "leather semi bra" raised my interest, but only to find out it went on a truck...just a little humor.
For what it's worth, I think you would be better off with a good grade of marine vinyl as it would stand the abuse and weather better than leather.

Thanks Nadeem, I have never worked on airbag seats because I didn't think it was a good idea, but now I can explain to customers the reason why. I have had a couple customers that were somewhat unhappy because I wouldn't work on them, but with this information, they should thank us for not.

I have used 1/8" masonite from the local Menards cut to fit inside the frame, then thin fabric around the frame and glued to the masonite to keep it all tight. Then as Keith said, closed cell foam glued to the masonite and shaped as you want. You can also wrap it with thin card stock, cut a little bigger than the frame and padded. The card stock is then wrapped with finish material and tucked in and sewn all around the edge.

Very nice....where did you get the led lights?

Looks like an mess to me although it's a little hard to see from the pictures. There is some reason why they used last years bailing wire to hold it together, Is there the same shape and style of springs on both ends? It almost looks like there maybe some springs missing on the end, Some seats have a "Z" shaped spring or two at right angles with the others from the frame to the edge wire. The old seats when done correct should set as well if not better than the all foam seats. Someone else may have a better view of it.

I often find bad springs on the drivers side. If it was me I would strip the seat down to see what is all there. If the springs are held to the frame with wire, something is wrong. You can buy spring stock in a coil and replace them as needed and put in whatever arch want. Also edge wire can be installed across the springs to tie them altogether, I use paper covered wire to keep the noise down. I'm not sure about that seat but a lot of them have short bent springs on the side fastened to the edge wire which are prone to breakage. They can also be made from the coil springs. It kind of sounds like maybe a hack job to get the car out the door.

There are some instruction videos on You Tube. I ran on to them looking at different machines.

I find it is always good to get the driver to try the seat before you make the cover. Some of the "larger" guys don't work with a thick seat...I've had to rework some seats in the older cars/trucks to get them to fit without rubbing the finish off the steering wheel. Just a thought.

What a shame ..always the go to place for fabrics, although the last time I ordered from them they were out of stock on a lot of it.

Have you tried Keystone Sewing?...They are always helpful and good to work with.

Peter,
Thanks for the tip....they had what I wanted. Thanks again

Chris,
You may want to read this article...(RVE Vehicle Enhancement - VEHICLE SAFETY
https://www.rve.co.nz/leather-safety)
It gives you some idea as to the effort and engineering put into sewing the airbag seat, not to say you can't. I, personally won't work on one, but that's up to you.

I'll do it..that's exactly what I was talking about...Thanks

I'll give them a try next week. Thanks. I've scoured the internet with no luck....may end up at the junkyard with a knife

I was talking about a plain panel with a speaker in the middle...What Eric suggested will work although I haven't made the template yet. It will still be a slow job, but will look custom when done. I've seen it done, just didn't know the best way to go about it.

A lot of the old stock vinyl has a canvas type backing with very little stretch, and if is true old stock it may have stiffened up over time. All I know that you can do is warm it with a heat gun, but be careful. Maybe try it on a scrap piece to see if it helps. Some of the others may have a better idea.

Thanks everyone..That sounds like it will work Eric, I'm going to make the template. Making it once is a lot better than each time. Thanks again to everyone.

Some good ideas there, but not quite what I'm looking for. Thanks Jesse, will put this in my memory bank for later use.

I also use a Pfaff 1245 machine and haven't had much luck with the contrast thread, maybe someone can help, but I think this was kicked around on another post. I gave up trying but would still like to use the 240 thread if possible. It's been awhile since I tried it , but if I remember right, it was skipping stitches.

I have used the dash repair material by Polyvance on several dash repairs, it works great, but it just fills/repairs the foam portion and have always recovered the dash after the repair. Make sure that is well stirred before mixing the two parts.