I am selling my Singer 143w. It is currently set up to bind. This machine is in excellent shape! $450 pickup only

Sorry, yes.

A bandsaw is a great tool for precision foam cutting. As with most upholstery cutting operations operator skill is the biggest factor. It you have access to a bandsaw, experiment and see if it meets your needs. If money is no object, you could go the CNC Foam Cutting, Hot Wire, Table Router route.

Try here.
https://jiffysteamer.com/support/jiffy-steamer-technical/

Go with Adam’s recommendation. First the 71 series staple is an industry standard from what I have seen. I have a Fasco , a Senco and a Bea 71. The Fascos I have used feel a little crude in my hand and tend to overdrive the staple. The Senco was my first stapler and i chose because it could drive a 5/32 71 series staple. It is a nice stapler. My Bea 71 was given to me . Unfortunately it was damaged by a customer who borrowed it and was stapling to fiberglass. It broke the blade in half. I rebuilt it and now it is my favorite gun. It feels good in my hand, it feels good driving the staple and sets the staple correctly. In the end it is a person decision. Btw, I wear a men’s small glove. If you have a large hand it may influence your choice. Hope this was helpful.

It is unfortunate, but before the website was updated there were some excellent tutorials on carpet bindings. It would be great if they could be made available again.

Do you have any suggestions for reviving hides that were stored incorrectly? I received them folded over on themselves. Are the creases permanent? Thanks.

Watch this video. The shows a jig to cut a wedge. Hope it helps.
https://youtu.be/tEckoWJ4GMI

Check out
http://forum.thehogring.com/discussion/68/thoughts-on-cutting-foam.

We had a Bea staple gun with a broken driver blade. I was told it was lent to a customer who used it to fasten material to fiberglass. My gut feeling is stapling molded fiberglass can not be good for a general purpose upholstery staple gun. With that said, I have seen sheet metal stapled to chip board. It looked like it was stapled with a heavy duty desk style staple. It was a Cessna 172 door panel. You could shoot one as a test. If you do please let us know your thoughts.

We use 92 for the bobbins also. Btw, they are prewound bobbins.

I have both Wiss and KAI. The Wiss are more substantial, more of a general purpose tool. The KAI are a bit lighter but are incredibly sharp. I am extra careful when using them. You could easily cut yourself. With that said, they are a pleasure to use. I use them when precision is of the upmost. I think you will be very pleased with them.

Hope this helps.

Something to think about. On tight radius corners I prefer to sew the face material which has the radius to the boxing. Try sewing both ways and see what works best for you. When I first started I used a book by don Taylor where he sews the boxing to the face material. Then when I went to work in a Upholstery shop they did it the other way. See what works on your project. The other big thing is practice! Small projects are the hardest to sew. I would use old outdated shop fabric and sew up a bunch of covers. Then do the real one. Good luck.

Hi Naseem- thanks for the reply. While I usually us 1/2” I did reduce to 3/8 for this. That helped. Most of my practice ones did have relief cuts. I tried a couple without cuts to see how it effected the problem. No change. As far as starting from the center I would agree it is a more practical way to approach it. Part of the challenge was to correctly lay it out so I could start sewing from one end to the other. I think the problem is in the way it is sewn to lay flat as opposed to boxing/riser. Since the center of the radius is on opposite sides of the needle it causes an offset if you line them up. Yes, small things are hard. This problem does not show up in our marine work due to the larger radius. (See below) Btw, the guy I work for says I over think things. But that is part of the fun.

Correction, change “by” to “buy.”

So to follow up, who do you suggest to by from?

Here is a question. If you are recovering aircraft seats in vinyl, what is the best way to source your material? Purchase auto/marine material and have it burn tested or buy from an aviation supplier already tested. What is the best/proper way. Btw, I am primarily looking at part 91, private aircraft.

WD

That is the way the guy I work with approachs it. Sew it, examine the corner , and resew if needed. Thanks for the feedback.

In The United States they are available in any office supply store. Eg. Office Max or Staples.

Here is a link to one of the guns we use. This is the one I would recommend. I am not necessarily recommending you buy it from this link. Shop price.

https://www.stapleheadquarters.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=F1B+7C-16+LN50&ReturnURL=/air-staple-guns-22-ga&Category=8f5aa099-1464-4587-9474-ca5620d94ffc

Hi Steven - in the Upholstery shop I work our main focus is marine. We primarily use 71 series staples. While it will require you to purchase a new pneumatic stapler, there will be a benefit in I believe a greater selection on staples. Goggle the staple and see what you find. I would also suggest you buy a long nose gun.

Hi all- first thanks for the feedback. I tried Darren’s technique and it worked great. Thanks!

Hi Eric- first thanks for the reply. I am having a hard time following your reply. We all seem to have different names for the parts of a standard cushion. Could you expand on adding 1/8 pad to the facing? I will have to put my knee lift back to experiment with lifting on the corner. Thanks for taking the time to reply..

Hi mark- thanks for the reply. If I follow the wording correctly that is how i sew it. The welt is sewn to the pleated panel and then the boxing next. Sewing this cushion I placed the boxing face up on the sewing table and the panel face down. As far as sewing closer it is a function of the welting foot. I will definitely try shortening the stitch length. I feel if I make the stitch length too short I will be making a perforated edge. Thanks again.